The Summer In Italy Newsletter

The Town That Isn't

This month we highlight two intriguing towns on the Amalfi Coast - both with definitive distinctions. First up, The Town That Isn't!

Furore

It's easy to miss Furore, but you should be on the look-out for it and stop. Called "the town that isn't", this charming place is composed of two parts- one on the sea, the other on the mountain. It is a "non town" because it has no town center or main piazza. Instead, it is a scattered collection of houses sprinkled across the rocky cliffs, from the Fjord di Furore at the water up the sheer hillside towards Agerola. 

This small coastal territory, scarcely populated and scrambling on the inhospitable rocks, was a land of tenacity, built up by exiles from Amalfi in search of safety. it's a fascinating place that is a "neverland" outside of time and place.Olive trees, grapevines on terraces are carefully tended on the mountainside, with bowers of bright yellow lemons, red roofs and colourful majolica tiles of the notable bell tower.

From the coast road you can walk down 200 steps to a hidden beach, or you can climb the steps up to the "non town". There are a few sights in Furore, including the Eco Museum, dedicated to the pre-industrial crafts and agriculture of the area, which includes displays on the paper making, an herb garden, and local liqueurs and artisan products. It is on Via Anna Magnani, an Italian actress who came to live here at the Villa Della Storta, a love nest hideaway she shared with Roberto Rossellini, where a museum is dedicated to the pair of famous actors.

Along the streets you'll find the murals that enliven the town's buildings, telling stories and spreading color and smiles along the way. Sample some of the "heroic wines" made here on the difficult-to-cultivate terrain; a stop at Marisa Cuomo's winery gives you new appreciate for the stubbornessness required to bring forth wine from the rocks. 

Furore's newest attraction is the free-flight (or almost) from the upper section down to Conca dei Marini by way of a zip line. It's a thrill, and a great way to arrive back down at the sea after climbing up the paths of the "town that isn't." (You can get there by car or bus, too.)

The Smallest Town

Our second contender has the distinction as Italy's Smallest Town. Atrani is the best-preserved fishing village in the area. The historic town center is a small jumble of pretty houses that cutely cradle the main piazza. Atrani is situated between sheer cliffs and the turquoise crystalline sea, near the so-called Valley of the Dragon. The village used to be summer residence of noble families of Amalfi. Still quiet and picturesque, its winding streets have remained largely unchanged. All this cuteness comes packed in the smallest land area of any town in the country - less than one square kilometer encompasses the entire community. But it sure packs a picturesque punch! The stone streets, pastel-painted buildings and wonderful beach make this tiny town a winner!