Market of Testaccio
This is the second "historical" market of our magnificent capital (while the one in 'Campo de' Fiori', which is also more touristy and expensive, holds supremacy) and undoubtedly the most genuine one. It is located between the noble quarter of Aventino and the popular alleys of Testaccio. A semi-covered market, apparently quite chaotic, but actually following some precise rules: selling way below market price means not to have clients as well as selling poor quality products means to lose them!
Second rule: do not talk about politics and politicians. At the most, if the vendor is on familiar terms with some of his customers, he might be allowed to make a quip about football! ;-)
As for the rest, it is a market like many others: with 'fruttaroli', retailers of goods bought at the general market, and 'vignaroli', retailers of their own market garden: like the little old woman squat down one of the columns, making curls with chicory's 'puntarelle' and mixed chopped vegetables of her own market garden to make superb 'minestrone'.
There is also the usual firstlings stand, reserved for a "niche market", and the most evaluated: a stand selling 21 different varieties of tomato, coming from everywhere in the world.
Not to be forgotten is the extraordinarily clean fish stand of Nello Trinca, characterized by the immaculate polystyrene and – on the other side of the road – Nasini, the top butcher: appreciated even because he would make you save your time, if you do not have time enough, accepting on-line orders to be picked up at the market!
The market is open from Monday to Saturday.
Address in Rome:
Piazza Testaccio.
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