A dive into the Middle Ages

The ending part of Valle Umbra, unfolds from Assisi to Foligno, closed westwards by the steep Mount Subasio and bordered by soft hills on the opposite side. You will see olive trees and vineyards almost everywhere, then woods and prairies on the nude tops of the mountains. This is a valley rich in streams, that in this point flow into the river Topino, close to the confluence with the river Chiascio, to flow into the Tevere after a short while. Into the great countryside villages, a part from the bustling valley floor, the time seems to be lost. We will try to suggest a lovely itinerary into the ideal setting for travellers careful to details, who love beating less touristy streets, seeking old-fashioned atmospheres and flavours.

From Spello to Bettona

Itinerary length: Km 30,6

The village that keeps more than any other the witness of the ancient Roman presence in Umbria, rises on the spurs of Mount Subasio. Spello is admirable from every angle: the amphitheatre's ruins, the Augustan walls, the ancient town hall and the visible traces of the centuriation of the plain just below the village that mark the precocious reclaiming works for the “Lacus Umber” that flooded this place in ancient times. The current Spello is divided into three quarters: Borgo; Mezota and Posterula, respectively the popular district, the central zone of public buildings and high medieval area. The whole village has kept intact its character, with pink limestone houses agglomerated into suggestive narrow alleys followed one another, with steep gradients and sudden foreshortening of the plain.

Our itinerary starts here in Spello, from "Porta Consolare": dated back to the I century BC, it was integrated into the Medieval reconstruction of the walls, with a tower placed side by side. The upper part of the gate shows three funerary statues belonging to the Republican age, found nearby the amphitheatre. From Porta Consolare, if you turn left towards Via Roma, you will reach "Porta Ubrica" with a Tuscan barrel vault and Augustan walls set beside; while Via Consolare goes, through the popular district of Borgo, to the heart of the old town centre. There is a singular difference between the area on right side of the street, characterized by tortuous medieval alleys, and the one on the right side, that shows a more regular Roman settlement.

Santa Maria Maggiore

There is a beautiful Romanesque pinnacled bell-tower, dating back to the XI-XIII centuries beside this marvellous church; the façade, remade in the XVII century with ancient materials, has a Romanesque frieze framing the portal. The Baglioni Chapel exhibits gorgeous frescoes (representing the Annunciation, with a Pinturicchio's self-portrait visible on the right, into the painted cornice; the Nativity; and the Dispute into the Temple, with four Sibyls seating on the throne, each one between two lapides showing biblical motto) made by Pinturicchio for want of the family in power at that time. The famous painter put himself out for other two frescoes: the Canonic Oratory (Oratorio dei Canonici) shows indeed Madonna col Bambino, while Madonna col Bambino e i santi Giacomo e Bernardino are exhibited into the Crucifix Chapel (Cappella del Crocifisso). The Church preserves many other precious oeuvres, like the Renaissance pulpit by Nicola da Campione and the marvellous frescoes by Perugino, nearby the presbytery's pillars. The Civic Picture Gallery many other works of art, recently re-set into the adjacent collegiate church, including holy furnishings and paintings that document the productions of stunning Umbrian artists like Cola Petruccioli, l'Alunno, and Fantino da Bevagna.

The Civic Picture Gallery (Pinacoteca Civica” is open to visits: March, June and October from 10 am to 1 pm – from 3.30 pm to 6.30 pm; July and September, from 10 am to 1 pm – from 4 pm to 6 pm; November to February, from 10 am to 1 pm – from 3 pm to 6 pm; Monday closed.

St Andrea

After Santa Maria Maggiore, have a look at the Church of St Andrea, dated back to the XIII century and changed by subsequent restoration works. The rich internal decorations include frescoes from the XIV to the XV century, among which we must mention Madonna e i santi (1508), by Pinturicchio and Eusebio da San Giorgio and il Sogno di San Giuseppe, by Dono Doni.

Piazza della Repubblica

Once passed the church of St Andrea, walking through Via Cavour, at some point the street widens into Piazza della Repubblica, beautifully lined with trees and adorned with a lovely XVI-century fountain. There is the Palazzo Comunale, with an ogival portico and some parts dating back to the XIII century. The interiors, frescoed at the time of the XVI-century reconstruction, house a Lapidary; the Civic Library; the Historical Archive; the permanent Collection Emilio Greco, with numerous oeuvres signed by the Sicilian artist. Taking Via Garibaldi, you will reach Piazza Umberto I, where to admire the Church of St Lorenzo.

Vallegloria Monastery

Walking past Via Giulia, which runs below Posterula, you will reach Piazza Vallegloria, whose name derives from the nearby Clarisses monastery, built in 1320 and changed many times throughout the centuries. Impressive the Gothic church and the lovely cloister dated back to 1560.

Arco di Augusto

The entrance to the oldest quarter of Spello is marked by the so-called "Arco di Augusto". Ancient gate used to access the Roman acropolis, later on become Longobard "castrum", then medieval stronghold, of which you will be able to admire some remaining keeps. The area is occupied by the by the Capuchin Convent that englobes the parish church of St Severino, dated back to the XII century. From the viewpoint terrace there is a magic panorama of the Valley of Topino and the hills expanse between Assisi and Montefalco.

Porta Venere

Imposing Augustan construction, originally composed by a double curtain with three supporting arches, and clasped between two majestic dodecagonal towers. It was probably added in the Middle Ages.

Archaeological Area

It is located a bit far from the historical centre, along the highway to Assisi and preserves numerous Roman findings, and half-buried ruins of an amphitheatre. The lovely Romanesque church of St Claudio rises above the ruins, with an elegant rose window and bell gable. Inside there are notable XIV and XV-century frescoes.

Villa Costanzi

Surrounded by a fantastic park this gorgeous villa homes the collection Straka-Coppa, exhibiting ancient and modern paintings. Drive on for 2,5 Km and you will reach the so-called “Chiesa Tonda”: Renaissance building with Greek cross and octagonal cupola.

The Villa is open to visits: April, June and September, h 10.30 am – 1 pm and 3.30 pm – 6 pm; July and August, h 10.30 am – 1 pm and 4 pm – 7 pm; from October to March, h 10.30 am – 1 pm and 3 pm – 5.30 pm.

Foligno

According to the legend, Foligno, built in ancient times close by the river Topino's banks, was founded again thanks to the bishop Feliciano, Gospel preacher and martyr in 251. The field where wanted to be buried became a pilgrimage destination. Later on the locals built in the same place a small church, that surrounded by walls and towers, grew so much to lie over the older built-up area. The current historical centre keeps traces of the Roman Empire and part of the XIII-century boundary walls; even though the city is generally modern, devoted to commerce and industry, according to the manufacturing historical tradition. Foligno is been cradle of an important pictorial school between Trecento and Quattrocento, and also birthplace of minor art, such as ceramics, miniature, wood carving and inlaying, embroidering and wrought iron. Some of them have industrially grown, the others survive thanks to the local crafts. The lively picture of the local events in piazza has the main summer appointment in the famous Giostra della Quintana inspired to a XVII-century equestrian tournament.

Piazza della Repubblica

This is the heart of the city with the adjoining Piazza del Duomo. The second façade of the cathedral, along with Palazzo Trinci and the XII-century Palazzo Comunale with a neoclassical façade, make it special indeed. On the right side of Palazzo Comunale, there is the Palazzetto Orfini, elegant building with an impressive portal made in 1515.

The Dome

Built in the XII century, but changed during the XVI and XVIII centuries, the dome has a double "location": the main front (1133), with loggias and mullioned windows with two lights, has been revised at the beginning of the XX century; the transept front, dated back to 1201, shows a precious portal adorned with reliefs and mosaics made by Cosmati, famous race of Roman artists. The interiors offer the typical neoclassical style of the most important architects of that age: Luigi Vavnvitelli, and his pupil Giuseppe Permarini.

Palazzo Trinci

Built in 1389-1407 for want of the lords of Foligno and revised many times, the Palazzo shows an admirable neo classical façade (1841-47), while the courtyard and interiors have kept the original structure and decorations. Palazzo Trinci houses the archaeological museum and the Civic Picture Gallery. The Gallery documents the XV and XVI-century pictorial production, with masterpieces of the locals Nicolò Alunno, Bartolomeo di Tommaso and Pier Antonio Mezzatris; the museum collects Roman material coming from the region of Umbria.

Quarter of Poelle

This characteristic quarter was born in the XIII century between the Topino's riverbed, coinciding with Via Gentile da Foligno and the modern canalization, made in 1254. The modest terraced houses are located between two big convents: St Giacomo and St Lucia. Continue on to the river side, all along the medieval walls perimeter.

Via Garibaldi

Once arrived at Porta Ancona, you must take one of the main streets that divide the city into four quadrants, the current Via Garibaldi, that used to route the travellers towards Via Flaminia. The street is lined with important XVIII-century holy buildings: the Church of SS. Annunziata, one of the first neoclassical constructions designed by Carlo Murena in 1760, belonging to the school of Vanvitelli; the church of St Salvatore, splendid example of XIV-century building, revised by Vanvitelli (offers a marvellous triptych made by Bartolomeo di Tommaso in 1437); the church of St Agostino, restored in the XVIII; the church of St Maria del Suffragio (1730). A short detour goes to the Church of Nunziatella, built in 1494 with Renaissance interiors and an impressive fresco by Perugino.

St Maria Infraportas

This lovely church was built between the centuries XI and XII out of the walls and is preceded by a small portico. St Maria Infraportas is one of the few churches keeping the original structures, the fascia boards and Romanesque bell-tower. The interior with a nave and two side aisles offers XV and XVI-century votive frescoes, on the pillars and walls; in the Chapel of Assunta there is a cycle of frescoes in Byzantine style, dated back to the XII century.

Via Gramsci

One of the most significant streets in Foligno, with seventeenth and eighteenth-century buildings, like Palazzo Nuti-Deli, that includes a medieval tower. Walking across Via Gramsci you will get back to Piazza della Repubblica. Turning off Via Arti e Mestieri you will reach the church of St Nicolò, with fourteenth-century origins, but restored between the XVI and XVIII century; inside it you will find two notable paintings by l'Alunno, the polyptych (Presepio, Risurrezione e Santi e Incoronazione di Maria) and St Antonio Abate and St Bernardino. Going on to Via del Reclusorio, St Giovanni dell'Acqua, delle Conce and Piazza del Grano, you will get into one of the most secluded quarters of the city, where flowed the primitive course of the river Topino. That used to be an area particularly swarming with commerce and manufactures.

Bevagna

The classic sources remember it as "Mevania",Umbrian agglomerate, then important Roman village crossed by Via Flaminia, bestower of an incredibly booming state. The perfect intact structure is obviously the main tourist attraction of this lovely town, whose the main street is Corso Matteotti, even though the centre of the historical medieval settlement coincides with the beautiful Piazza Silvestri.

Porta Foligno

The huge number of Roman findings out of this Porta (gate) mean that in this area, the Roman city and the medieval one did not coincide. An elliptical cavity signals the amphitheatre's position. When you get over the gate, the fragments of Roman paving found in Corso Matteotti witness that the original route of Via Flaminia coincides with the modern central street.

Via San Francesco

After the sharp bend, the street lies into a convex block that follows faithfully the Roman theatre structure, dated back to the I century. The church of St Francesco, annexed to the convent, has been placed between the theatre and the medieval wall after 1275. The Church's position, compared with the churches of St Agostino and St Domenico, marks the balanced division of the city in three different areas under the influence of the three religious orders co-existing there. The façade, simple and unfinished, is the original one (1275), while the interiors have been revised in the eighteenth-century: impressive a Crucifix with Angels and St Francesco, attributed to Dono Doni.

Piazza Garibaldi

Its singular large funnel shape, heading for the thirteenth-century keep of Porta Cannara, is due to the pre-existence of the Roman forum. The ruins have become an existential condition for the area where rises the Madonna della Neve: the church, abandoned, was built in the Middle Ages among ruins of a Roman temple dated back to the II century. The nearby Porta Guelfa, into a modern environment that occupies part of a Roman thermal building, you will see a black and white mosaic, dating to the II century, with a marine motif. Further on, on the right side of the piazza, a staircase goes up to a thirteenth-century church of St Francesco.

Corso Matteotti

Corso Matteotti has been since the antiquity the most representative street of the town. The central part shows the most precious buildings: on the right you will see the eighteenth-century Church of Consolazione; after a short while, on the left, St Maria Laurenzia, one of the first urban churches, founded in the XIII century and later changed to be used differently. The Palazzo Municipale (Town Hall), restored in the eighteenth-century, houses the Museum-Picture Gallery of Bevagna, articulated into the archaeological, documentary and pictorial sections. Just before Piazza Silvestri, some houses leaned one against the other hide the Dominican Convent, that lays over Roman public building.

The Museum-Picture Gallery of Bevagna is open to visits: April, May and September, 10.30 am – 1 pm and 3.30 pm – 6 pm; Monday closed; from June to August, 10.30 am – 1 pm and 4 pm – 7 pm; Monday closed; from October to March, only Saturday and Sunday, 10.30 am – 1 pm and 2.30 pm – 5 pm.

Piazza Silvestri

The heart of the village that offers an almost original vision of the Middle Ages. It is an unusual public space: the monumental complex lacks indeed in orthogonal axis and symmetry. Palazzo dei Consoli is the seat of the civic power, built in 1270, with an external staircase, with an open gallery and two mullioned windows with two lights. The Palazzo holds the theatre Francesco Torti (1886), harmonic and perfect in spite of the small size. Two of three churches overlooking the piazza dated back to the XII century: St Silvestro (1195) has a Romanesque portal with concentric arches, unfortunately unfinished; St Michele Arcangelo (end of the XII century) shows a richer drawing, a lovely portal with elegant bas-relieves and mosaics, an interior with Romanesque lines. The Church of Ss. Domenico e Giacomo, the third holy building, was built in 1291 between the piazza and Corso Matteotti, even if restored in the XVIII century. It preserves traces of the original construction, like the impressive frescoes.

St Agostino

The church, built along with the convent in the XIV century, is placed against the walled perimeter and overlooks a small rectangular piazza; it offers precious Trecento frescoes of the Umbrian school. St Agostino, the convent, the piazza, the walls and the gate compose, according to a common method during the Middle Ages, the ending knot of the city.

Bettona

Fascinating Etruscan hamlet, with a Mediaeval look, that overlooks the low valley of Chiascio from the top of a hill. Driving on the ring road, you will admire on one hand, one of the most enchanting panoramas in the region, that earned it the appellative of "Etruscan balcony"; on the other hand the medieval boundary walls. The old town centre is composed by Piazza Cavour and Piazza Garibaldi, that create a suggestive environment, whose medieval origins are witnessed by the two most representative monuments.

St Maria Maggiore

This notable church has thirteenth-century origins even if it was revised in the seventeenth-century. One of its chapels preserves a Gonfalon, by Perugino and a standard by Nicolò Alunno, from Foligno. The Palazzo del Podestà, of fourteenth-century origins, that houses the Civic Picture Gallery exhibiting oeuvres like St Antonio Abate, by Perugino; Madonna e Santi, by Dono Doni; several paintings by Tiberio d'Assisi and Fiorenzo di Lorenzo; terracotta from the workshop Della Robbia and numerous archaeological findings.

St Crispolto

Remade at the end of the eighteenth-century, this beautiful church, located in Piazza Garibaldi, is dedicated to the first bishop and saint patron of the village. The village has a magic old-fashioned atmosphere, also thanks to the lovely typical craftsman shops that keep alive old traditions like wrought iron, stone works, marble works and cabinet making.

The Picture Gallery is open to visits: from the 15th March to the 15th October, h 10.30 am – 1 pm and 3 pm – 6.30 pm. The rest of the year it closes at 5 pm and on Monday.